The Brioni Fall/Winter 2018 wardrobe explores sartorial archetypes for the discerning man of the 21st century. It relies on the assumption that design in our mobile, highly challenging world should be about the search for relevant clothes. To this end, Brioni concentrated on the core pieces of a man’s needs, in an approach that is more evolutionary than season oriented. Revisions may appear subtle. Closer inspection will reveal the guiding principle: To rethink everyday icons in the interest of the uttermost quality and luxurious comfort.
Liberties taken, play with the codes: The black tuxedo – the essence of evening wear – is also presented as a double breast in a deep brown nuance, the three-piece suit engages in understated pattern variations, the typical nylon puffer undercoat is realized in light leather, and the original lambswool felt of a navy blue peacoat has been substituted by cashmere. Key themes of the collection include mimicry, tone in tone looks and a blending of sartorial and casual. Quintessential garments are infused with new possibilities through unexpected combinations: A classic suit styled with Western boots, or a crocodile jacket hidden underneath a coat.
The Brioni wardrobe addresses archetypal situations in life from leisure, travel, and home wear, to formal and evening wear. Its execution relies on the strong DNA of the house of Brioni cultivated since 1945. First of all, on Sartorialità: The art of tailoring, based on high quality, innovation in fabrics and manufacturing, as well as studies of functionality, practicality and ergonomics.
It is the goal of the collection to emphasize the individual identity of the wearer, to introduce a man to himself rather than to a brand. All pieces are conceived, not to be stylish, but to lend transparency to the mental, creative and emotional style of a man. Ten men with different backgrounds, ages, and origins were chosen to embody the essential looks of the Brioni wardrobe. The result seemed so logical: When they put them on, it was as if they had always worn them.
Re-editions of Brioni climax designs like the travel jacket and the foot glove run through the collection. Details include a revision of the fit, a more centered lapel, a sharper outline, and a forward readjustment of the shoulder for more ease. Bespoke looks of the highest craftsmanship feature an original Japanese tapestry from the 19th century turned into an evening jacket and a silk scarf embroidered by a Chinese artist using the ancient Suzhou technique handed down through the generations. Refined leather goods are matched by an introduction of exclusive jewelry, from Haitian pearl cufflinks to lucky charms worn on the lapel.